This post is the first in our four part series on skiing Tuckerman Ravine.
If you are a serious skier or rider, there’s little doubt that you’ve heard about Tuckerman Ravine – It’s big, steep, and has been a New England proving ground since the 1930s.
Skiing Tuckerman Ravine: Planning Your Trip
Why it is Worth It
In recent years, skiing the ravine has become an annual event for so many people that cars line the road a mile in each direction from the trailhead on any decent Saturday or Sunday in the spring. Show up at 8 or 9 am and you’ll see hundreds, sometimes thousands of people packing up and heading out, skis on their back, ready for the slog up to the headwall.
Why would anyone want to do this? The entire experience is like no other – the skiing, the excitement of being a part of this great ritual, the awesome spectacle that is the ravine, and the bragging rights, just to name a few reasons. Go just once, and you’ll be coming back every year.
When to Go
While it’s possible (but not advisable) to ski earlier in the season, most people will choose a weekend in late April or early May when the weather has improved and avalanche conditions are more favorable. Pay close attention to the weather forecast right up until you leave (we look to the observatory for the most relevant information at mountwashington.org). Even careful planning doesn’t guarantee you good weather on the mountain. Conditions change very quickly and are difficult to predict – a 70 degree day in the valley can leave the mountain socked in with snow, fog, high winds and below freezing temperatures, so there’s never a guarantee.
What to Bring
While you will surely be tempted to carry as little as possible with you up the mountain to save on weight, there are certain items that you absolutely don’t want to leave home without. Tuckerman Ravine is a remote, high-alpine environment with no services or shelter, and you don’t want to be caught unprepared.
- Adequate clothing. The temperature at the trailhead is no indication of what you’ll encounter in the ravine. While your hike may start off in shorts, you should be prepared with full winter gear when you reach the ravine, even in the late spring. Many layers, a hat, mittens, shell jacket/pants, you know the drill. Don’t take the risk of being unprepared.
- A midsize pack. Many people you’ll see at the trailhead will have multi-day packs full of clothes with enough heft to carry skis and boots up the hill. Make sure it’s comfortable and capable of supporting such a load – skis and boots are heavier than you may think.
- Rock skis. Take our advice – leave your best equipment at home. While the ravine itself typically has good coverage, the Sherburne Trail (which stretches from the headwall to the road, allowing you to ski back down) does not. Rocks, roots, grass, and a variety of other hazards can ruin skis and your day.
- Food and Water. As previously mentioned, the ravine is a remote place and there are no services once you leave the AMC Pinkham Notch Visitor’s Center by the road. The hike up is long, and you’ll need plenty of water to keep going.
- Sunscreen. Always, regardless of the weather. The steep walls of the ravine reflect the sunlight directly onto your face, and has boiled people even on cloudy days.
- A Camera. If you don’t bring it, you’ll regret it!
Respect the Ravine
Skiing Tuckerman Ravine can be an excellent backcountry experience like no other, but it’s important to remember that it’s just that – a backcountry experience. When you hike into the ravine, you are doing so at your own risk. The White Mountain National Forest, and particularly Mount Washington, is a remote and potentially dangerous place notorious for its weather and hazards. While skiing in the ravine is permitted, it is in no way sanctioned. Hazards are never marked, signs are few and far between, and you are completely responsible for your own actions, well-being, and the cost of your rescue should things go awry.
If that hasn’t scared you off, here’s a few of the things you need to be aware of in the ravine:
- Avalanche Danger. Yes, there really are avalanches in Tuckerman Ravine, and there have been fatalities in the past. Check avalanche conditions both before departing and on the board at Hermit Lake; and be aware of the stability of the slope you are skiing on. Only experienced individuals with transceivers & avalanche equipment should be in the ravine early in the season or when avalanche danger is high.
- Icefall Danger. If you look up above the Lunch Rocks and on many of the steeper parts of the ravine, you’ll see some of the thousands of tons of ice that accumulates each year and falls into the ravine on warm days. Don’t linger in exposed or dangerous areas, and be alert for falling ice (particularly on Lunch Rocks.)
- Weather. The weather on Mount Washington is usually very different from what the valley is experiencing, and can change very quickly. Regardless of the forecast, come prepared for full winter conditions. Don’t skimp on warm clothing, period.
- Crevasses. At the center of the headwall and along the ski trail between the ravine & Hermit Lake, a river runs underneath the snow. In spring, holes open up in the snow to the rushing water & rocks below. Many have died from slipping into these crevasses or skiing over undermined snow. Always be aware of what you’re skiing over.
- Remoteness. Again, Tuckerman Ravine is remotely located, and help is often many hours away if something should go wrong. Helicopter rescues are rarely possible here, and your cell phone won’t work.
More Resources
- Download our convenient PDF cheat sheet, print & take it with you
- Visit the message boards at Time for Tuckerman to see info on recent conditions and who else is heading up to the ravine when you are
- Check avalanche & trail conditions at tuckerman.org, home of the Tuckerman Ravine Volunteer Ski Patrol
Skiing Tuckerman Ravine: The Trip Up
So, you’ve read our guide to planning your Tuckerman trip, checked out some of our suggested resources, and even printed out our trusty ravine cheat sheet. Now, we’ll go through all the steps and places involved in a day at Tuckerman Ravine, from where to stay if you’re traveling overnight, to where you can snag some water on the trail.
The Night Before
For many people, a day at Tuckerman Ravine starts with a 4am wakeup call at home and a long drive to make it to the trailhead by 9 or 10. If you’re one of those people, power to you – but there are a number of reasonably priced lodging options in the surrounding areas for the rest of us.
You can’t beat the Joe Dodge Lodge at the Pinkham Notch Visitors Center, which offers comfortable hostel-like lodging and a hearty breakfast for a very reasonable price. It’s also about six steps from the trailhead, so you can get a full night’s sleep before setting out.
If you are looking to really experience the ravine, consider spending the night at the Hermit Lake shelters. These primitive campsites are exposed lean-tos situated around the hut at Hermit Lake, and are run by the AMC. Reservations aren’t accepted and they often fill up quickly, so get to the visitor’s center early to purchase your permit.
Of course, just 45 minutes down the road you’ll find a litany of lodging options in North Conway, if you’re looking for something along the road from the south or something a little more accomodating. There are often some excellent deals to be had on hotels in the area during this slow season when ski areas are closed.
The Trailhead
Your day will likely start along the side of Route 16, with hundreds of other skiers preparing for the hike. The communal atmosphere in the morning is one of excitement and anticipation – this is a weekend that many people look forward to for months, if not the whole year.
Resist the temptation to over-dress before leaving your car – it may be cold, but you’ll be sweating ten minutes into the hike. Packing those extra layers away now can save you the hassle of having to stop just a short distance up the trail.
The trailhead begins just behind the Pinkham Notch Visitors Center, adjacent to your last restroom opportunity for two hours. Just outside of the restroom is a hanging pack scale – a fun opportunity to compare how much more weight you are carrying in comparison to your friends, and how much more you can complain about it on the way up. At the start of the trail, there are a number of foreboding signs that are a great place to stop and take a group photo.
Heading Up
The Tuckerman Ravine Trail starts off at a gentle grade, weaving through the woods alongside and crossing over the rushing river. About a half mile into the hike, you’ll pass a lookout to a large waterfall, which marks the beginning of the steady ascent that continues until just before reaching Hermit Lake.
The trail will remain under the trees and without a view until the halfway point, when a short straightaway will give you a look forward to Lions’ Head and the northern wall of the ravine. After this, several steep pitches and switchbacks separate you from Hermit Lake and the caretakers’ hut known as HoJo’s.
Hermit Lake
Hermit Lake is an attraction in itself. On a clear day, it is here that you’ll get your first real view of the ravine and the ski trails to the south. The overnight shelters and outbuildings are littered in the woods surrounding the main caretakers’ cabin, a good sized building with a large deck that looks out at the ravine.
While you’re here, take advantage of the opportunity to talk with others who are coming down from the ravine – get their take on conditions, snow stability, and the best lines of the day to ski. Inside of the caretakers’ cabin, you’ll find a small selection of gifts & memorabilia for sale – the obligatory tuckermans’ bumper sticker, t-shirts, and the like; so bring a little cash up with you.
Before leaving Hermit Lake on the final stretch to the ravine, be sure to check the avalanche safety board, prominently located in front of the deck. It’s also advisable to throw on a couple of extra layers, as the hike from here to the ravine ascends quickly and is mostly exposed to the wind.
Onward to the Ravine Floor
Shortly after leaving Hermit Lake is your only opportunity for fresh water along the length of the hike – a manual pump which is usually dug out and is functional even in the winter. From here, the trail winds out of the woods and onto several steep, snow covered pitches that weave up the mountain and to the ravine floor. While most people fare well with just sturdy hiking boots, a quality traction aid (like Yaktrax) can be very helpful along this stretch. Crampons aren’t advisable, because the trail frequently switches from deep snow to rock & scree.
As you near the ravine, the trail flattens out. You’ll have an excellent view down onto the little headwall and the ski trail that leads back down to Hermit Lake. Take this opportunity to scout out a line if you are planning on skiing back down, and making note of where there’s open water. When you pass the first aid cache on the right, you’ll know you are nearing the ravine.
In our next post, we’ll take you to the Lunch Rocks, and give a rundown of each of the major lines to ski while in the ravine.
Skiing Tuckerman Ravine: The Ride Down
The first time you set foot in the ravine, you’re likely to be overwhelmed. There are literally hundreds of possible lines in the bowl alone, and an infinite number more are visible to the south, just outside Tuckerman proper. While it’s tempting to scout a line yourself, it’s vital that you have a plan and know what you are skiing on. It’s almost impossible to judge the angle of the slopes from the ravine floor, and the hazards & difficulty vary greatly from route to route. Let’s walk through the most popular lines in Tuckerman Ravine.
Choose Your Line
Study the above map (click to enlarge) and get to know each of the popular runs in the ravine. We recommend also visiting the Mount Washington Avalanche Center’s Tuckerman Terrain Guide, an invaluable collection of photos and slope information (some of which was used in compiling our list.)
1 – Left Gully – One of the easier and longer routes in the ravine, Left Gully has a sustained pitch of 35 degrees (but approaches 45 degrees as you near the top.) It’s typically a quieter alternative on busy days, but involves a somewhat lengthy climb.
2 – Chute Variation – There are technically a number of variations on the chute (#3), all of which run through this area. Expect rocks and a steep 40-50 degree pitch before hitting the fall line.
3 – The Chute – Aptly named, the chute is a relatively short, steep run carved from the rock that ranges from 40-50 degrees. The steep walls on the upper part of the run make it particularly dangerous in deeper snow when avalanche is a possibility.
4 – Center Headwall – This run has a number of variations that run over the rocks and down into the steepest part of the ravine (the run averages 60 degrees, but is littered with small cliffs that push it past the 90 degree mark.)
5 – The Icefall – Similar to Center Headwall, this run involves steep pitches, ample water ice and cliff jumps. The open waterfall and undetectable undermined snow make it a dangerous run that has claimed lives.
6 – The Lip – The lip is a classic Tuckerman run frequented by those who want a taste of the cliffs and steeps that the center headwall and the icefall have to offer. Cliffs are somewhat optional depending on the time of year and how far over you travel.
7 – The Sluice – Amongst the most popular runs, the Sluice is a 45-50 degree run that is most prominently located in front of the Lunch Rocks.
8 – Right Gully – Another “easier” route in the ravine, Right Gully consists of pitches that range from 35-45 degrees. Overhanging ice makes it a dangerous run that should be avoided in warm weather.
9 – Lobster Claw / Variations – There are a number of variations further right of right gully that range in difficulty and slope. Again, use caution because of overhanging ice; these areas also aren’t as frequently used and still carry avalanche risk.
Down from the Ravine
Once you’ve made your run (or runs) in the ravine, it doesn’t necessarily mean a hike back down to your car. If you are visiting the ravine during the right time of the year, you can ski a significant amount of the distance down to the trailhead on both the little headwall and Sherburne ski trail. Under no circumstances should you ski on the tuckerman ravine trail – believe me, someone will call you out on it.
When leaving the ravine floor on a busy day, look for direction from volunteer ski patrollers on where they’d like you to enter the ski trail over the little headwall; oftentimes the run starts five or so minutes down the trail toward Hermit Lake. Before dropping in, take a few minutes to assess the run while you can see it from above. Where is there open water? Possibly undermined snow? Look to see where other skiers have skied and if it looks safe. While the little headwall doesn’t look intimidating, it can be one of the most dangerous parts of your trip – fall through some undermined snow or ski too close to an open hole, and you’ll be carried hundreds of feet under the snow by the rushing water, with no chance of rescue.
When you make it past the little headwall and arrive at Hermit Lake, look for the continuation on the Sherburne trail. Before starting out, make an honest assessment of the snow conditions and how far down you think it will last. While the trail winds closer to the hiking trail as you near Pinkham Notch, it’s further away up higher and can mean a longer hike should you be forced off your skis due to a lack of snow.